Sunday 2^nd February 2003
Stock up for next three days before heading off towards East Cape - first drive up the east of L Rotorua and then turn east past a chain of smaller lakes. Turn left before Whakatane (pronounce Fakatanee), eventually reach Opotiki where visit the Beach House Backpackers with view to stopping there on our return from the cape. Place is, obviously, on the beach and seems good so book two nights (5th & 6th). Chat to owner (Steve) for a while and he knows all about the next two hostels - there is a good network between the hostel operators generally. Reckons we will like them, particularly Maraehako Bay, our next stop. East of Opotiki, road runs right along coast that is backed by bush clad hills and cliffs. Very scenic. Lots of timber washed up on beaches. Sea is Pacific blue with cloudy areas where sand has been churned up. Pass through Te Kaha & Te Kopua before Whanarua Bay and the hostel at Maraehako Bay.

The East Cape is a Maori "stronghold". Nearly every village, however small, has a marae, which is combination of village hall, church, community centre. We find the people very friendly. It is not exactly unspoilt as there are areas of hillside where forestry dominates, and as with other predominantly rural areas there are rotting automobiles and other bulky scrap along the roadsides. A couple of times we pass people riding horses along the road - clearly as part of their lifestyle rather than recreational.

Have to descend a very steep track in car to hostel which is set in a tiny cove amongst trees at the water's edge - rocky but beach a short distance to the right. It is a wonderfully scenic spot. There's no one around when we arrive but a young chap (Dave) appears shortly after and allocates our room and shows us around. He seems a little strange. Turns out the owner Pihi and Emma (a backpacker who didn't leave) are away at Whakatane (1.5 hours) for church & shopping. It is so peaceful - just us and a Japanese girl asleep in a hammock - that we just sit, Glyn writes postcards, Pete updates the log.

The hostel is another owner built wooden construction which looks sound enough but Pete wonders whether there are any building controls. Another section has recently been added. The structure is terraced, working back up hill on number of levels. Our room on ground floor right by the water. There is a patio area surrounded by the arms of an ancient pohutukawa tree. There is open fire that lit nightly. Visitor book full of glowing references for place. Religious thread runs through. "Many thanks for the blessing of this place, the fellowship and prayers" - that sort of thing. Pihi obviously fishes for Crayfish and guests fish too. There is much reference to sumptuous feasts of fresh fish and seafood.

Unfortunately, the loos and showers are a little basic. Showers not separate rooms but two lots of curtains - one for shower, one for privacy. Glyn felt they were not clean - certainly no loo rolls when we arrived. Maybe this not typical as owner away. Pete's only complaint was price - $50 for night - we have only rarely paid this much.

When Japanese girl woke we talked - her English was basic - but she was very nice. Actually her parents were Chinese and Japanese/Chinese. She born in China but parents moved to Japan to have second child (little brother). Turns out she is hoping to go to same hostel as us tomorrow. After dinner Dave lights fire and encourages us to all sit around. Then follows surreal conversation for a couple of hours. At one point Dave, who claims to be Maori but doesn't look it, asks Pete if he rides. Pete says no, Dave says "so how did you get to school?"! Pete thinks he's joking but Glyn doesn't. It seems everyone here rides a horse. Later he tells us the Queen is not welcome here - no Queen's Chain here (normally the first chain of land around the coast belongs to the crown and cannot be developed). Then he asks if Queen visits our country much. Bit lost for words really. We wonder if he has never travelled (or winding us up). Certainly they have no TV or radio, and everyone locally is related. Eventually, we escape to bed.

Monday 3^rd February 2003
In the morning when Pete pays bill he meets Emma who seems very nice. Would have been different visit if owners home - not sure exactly how though. Car comfortably manages to get back up hill and we drive on round cape road. Only settlement of any size is Hick's Bay. Don't take major diversion to actual cape but cross more inland. Stop briefly at Te Puia Springs where get huge cornets for 50c each, but hot springs are at hotel and we are not tempted. (Later, Japanese girl tells us she called in but was told they were cold!?)

Arrive at Brian's Place, Brian not here, note says select a bed - so we test the mattresses and plump for the double room at the front. Nice room. Small wooden hostel on hill above the bay with good views, composting outside loo, one shower. One double room and various accommodation in the attic - mostly consisting of mattresses on very low platforms. Tight staircases would make getting up and down difficult for the less supple - particularly at night - but great for the young at heart.

Brian arrives a little later. Seems a good guy, very laid back. Talk to him about other hostels and while telling of Garry's $10 meals, Brian decides he has some venison patties and sausages in freezer and perhaps we will have a barbie tonight. Everyone contributes something and Glyn assembles salad, coleslaw, peaches and tomatoes, potato salad with stuff she finds in the fridge. Some others prepare a fruit salad. Before dinner we go down to the beach for a swim. Pete frolics in the waves but too rough for Glyn who beachcombs happily.

Back to hostel, Brian cooks and 11 eat. Good feeling around the verandah as the sun goes down. Mossies arrive and we take cover inside after sustaining a few bites. Mark arrives - he is a surfer from Cornwall and he works here for three months of the year - it seems he has been away for two weeks so Franca has been doing his job whilst he was away - he works in a surf shop in Cornwall and gets the 4 winter months off to travel.

To bed thinking we might get up to see sunrise as hostel faces out to sea in the east (claims to be the first to see the sunrise!). Wake to voices outside at 0615; Glyn gets up a bit later and takes picture. Pete decides against - maybe tomorrow.

Tuesday 4^th February 2003
Its another scorching day and we think we'll get going before the midday sun. The Rough Guide talks of a waterfall so we set off in search. Further along the road than we expected but eventually come to turn off Waitakeo Falls just past concrete bridge through gate on left, heading north. Track not very clear but find our way to a point where we are faced with a steep drop to river, steep climb to right which doesn't seem to lead anywhere. Glyn "cops a squat" while Pete explores. Best route is to drop down to left, cross stream, head right through fence and cross stream again. But no clear path emerges and Pete decides not to press on. It's a really good spot anyway and we have enjoyed walking through the trees. Lots of ducks and a number of birds, loud noise of cicadas. Decide Rough Guide author never walked this himself. When we get back Brian tells us we were heading right but had to press on. Last bit has to be walked up riverbed to a pool and falls. Also says was probably him who told RG of walk.

We think we'll see if we can stay another night here and do a spot of fishing. Brian suggests that we try for crayfish - he has some hand pots that we can put down at end of wharf and some bait. So we'll have a go this evening.

Brian is a keen hunter and does horse treks. He was a race jockey and his first win was at Rotorua on a horse called Torridon (by Follow Suit out of Eager Loch) in 1972 - we wonder if anyone back home knows of it.

One of Brian's friends locally, Wayne, it appears is building a boat (ship). Franca takes us to see. It is like something from a fairy tale, he is building the boat in a field half a mile from the sea. It is 23m long, 6m in the beam, and will be over 50 tonnes with a drop keel. He has a 6-cylinder diesel and will have a tractor engine as a generator. It is built on wooden frames but will have a ferro-cement hull and will be schooner rigged (2 mast). The plans are based on a boat called Miro (which is currently at Bluff but fairly derelict) but the rig will be different. There is model of Miro in Wellington Maritime museum. He plans to use it for eco-tourism and to raise the money to finish it (started in 1991) he has had to form a company Eco-Ship Tourism and sell shares. He now has enough money to get it afloat. Various travellers are helping out for a few days or weeks and at the moment they are stapling wire mesh onto the hull before cementing. The masts are Douglas Fir and he will sail down to Gisborne to get them stepped. It is all rather unreal.

Two guests arrive at hostel and when Brian discovers they are from near Isle of Wight he introduces us. Turns out that one of them (Susan Read) was taught at school by Dad, and her daughter (Louise Mapes) too - another demonstration of the small world theory! They actually live in Everton.

We are very at home here and decide to stay another night. Ring Steve at Opotiki and shift our booking back one day.

Brian has told us that we can catch crayfish off the end of the wharf. He supplies us with two hand "pots" and some bait. It seems we must go to end of wharf but it is need of some repair and there is a difficult step. Best time is to go out just before dusk and fish into the night. After dinner, armed with torches we set off. But weather has turned nasty and showers blowing through on quite strong SE wind. When we get onto the wharf Glyn is not at all happy and we only go to end of concrete part where fish for half an hour before calling it off. Needless to say no crayfish. On the way back we take up Wayne's invitation to stop at his house for cups of Milo (NZ hot chocolate). Pete feels very nostalgic as house reminds him strongly of somewhere in his youth - probably travelling around USA. We sit and solve the world's problems while a friend plays his electric guitar - it is very ramshackle and basic, with a hippy/60's student laid back atmosphere (maybe a scene from Kerouac). Wayne says it is all "horseshit" anyway. We head back to our 'home from home'.

Wednesday 5^th February 2003

Baking tray doesn't fit in the small oven so two dishes are used - not quite up to standard but compliments all round nevertheless! Same goes for crumble - backpackers are so easy to please.

Pete returns very happy several hours later … Felt a bit unsteady at start, but relaxed and put some weight on the stirrups and found life more comfortable. Horses seemed to be rather flatulent bunch and always seemed to be one in front of Pete! Pete's horse, Bell (Hell's Bells says Brian), is a bay, and apparently leader of the pack - also a bit lazy and will do anything to avoid going up the hill (like going right instead of left!) but once she accepts the inevitable is fine. Trek was good 2 hours and went through an exciting variety of terrains. Crossed several creeks, over fallen trees, under overhanging branches, through tangled wire. Down steeply, up steeply on narrow track pushing through bush. "Going up here, lean forward, weight on stirrups and grab a good handful of mane". Brian shows us ancient puriri tree - very broad. Stopped at highest point where good view over the bay. Dismounted and let horses wander for a while. Pete particularly good at mounting and dismounting! Pete and Brian discuss fencing, then deer numbers. Brian tells how to shoot deer with .22, aim for intersection of line from right eye to left ear and left eye to right ear. Down to beach for "gallop through the waves". Pete manages a sedate trot, but at least finds a reasonably comfortable technique. Then back to paddock. By the end, a little confidence had been gained.

After a late lunch Pete goes off to practise surfing on a bodyboard and Glyn chats with other guests. Sue and Alan have decided to move on but two German girls (Doris and Constance) arrive and an American (Jamie) and a French girl (Nadine). Leo is still here - he and Sebastian are camping and the company are a nice friendly group. After dinner Alex and Nicole are keen to try cray fishing - we stress that we have no experience but it seems almost everyone wants to go so we set off in two cars. Meet same man on wharf that we saw yesterday and he shows us a huge crayfish he caught in his pot. Great excitement all round, trouble is that broken wooden pier looks as bad tonight as yesterday! Glyn and other girls remain on concrete pier while the guys pick their way over the broken boards to rickety end. Jamie returns and insists that Glyn goes out on death trap pier and doesn't take no for an answer. Two guys hand her across bit where there is no pier at all and Pete is astonished that she is out there (so is she). This pier would have barbed wire and a skull and crossbones on it in UK! But worth it as a small crayfish comes up in a pot after about 15 min. Too small to keep but much admired before it is put back. Glyn retreats to concrete pier before it is too dark and we sit and talk 'til guys decide it's time to give up on crayfish - back to hostel where time is spent chatting, Jamie sits on verandah playing guitar - excellent atmosphere - very happy place.

Thursday 6^th February 2003
Sunny morning and we are reluctant to leave this lovely place but Steve's beach house beckons - first Pete wants to go on a hike up the hill with Brian and some friends so Glyn packs up room ready for off. Brian's friends are a family, Bill and Jan with four young children (4 yrs upwards). Two younger children stay with Nanny Queenie. Bill is part Maori, Jan from New Plymouth. Bill is headmaster at local primary school but children are home schooled. Brian sets off at good pace, Bill and Pete bring up rear, keeping an eye on two youngest. Chat as we walk. Bill and Jan have visited Scotland and know Ullapool and Inverewe gardens (even have a book). We cover some of same ground as yesterday's trek but then head upwards. As we go track gradually disappears and Brian has to hunt for easiest route through low growing manuka (tea tree) bush. Very difficult going for small children and they whinge a bit. The expression "dragging the chain" is used for those lagging behind - guess this goes back to convict chain gangs. We don't worry, as Brian knows the area "like the back of his hand"! Eventually, we break free and have to scramble up last bit to summit of Toiroa - an old Pa site (fortified Maori village) at the south side of the bay. Obviously a very good location, precipitous on three sides with narrow ridge for access. Good views into distance and across East Cape, which has North Island's 5th highest mountain, Hikurangi (highest non-volcanic summit). We share chocolate bars and melon, Jan takes pictures, before returning by much easier grassy route - this is Brian's idea of a joke! Weather is good and hot and the shade of the bush is welcome. When the children get a whiff of home they suddenly have boundless energy! They want to remove their shoes as normally don't wear any and assortment they have don't fit well. The family is very friendly, as everyone in Toko Bay has been.

Grab some lunch and get away, before we change our minds. Very glad we came to East Cape and Brian's Place and will certainly come again - maybe for launching of Wayne's boat?

Drive south towards Gisborne detouring at Whangara to see location used for Whalerider film. Unfortunately, are put off by various Private Road, No Trespassing signs so don't actually stop but do get glimpse of Marae with small whale carving on ridge. Stop in Gisborne to post cards then turn NW, stopping at Matawai for petrol and ice creams, before descending Waioeka Gorge to Opotiki. Pete arrives with headache that gets worse and he takes himself to bed. After a nap and Panadol feels much better and joins Glyn talking to Hiroko (Steve's Japanese partner), and together with Steve and two other guests pass the evening in conversation.