Friday 31^st January 2003
Woke early again owing to the bus arriving to pick up people for the Tongariro crossing but we have to move on to Rotorua today. Another sunny day and we don't get going very early as we spend time talking to Clint. We are surprised 'Bellbird' hasn't got a higher rating as we have been very happy here.
A German couple advise us on some 'must dos' around Rotorua and we decide not to go for the Gondola ride at Whakapapa as it is too far out of our way. Instead we have a list of sights to see on our way to Rotorura.

First stop is at the Huka Falls (most visited site in NZ) where the Waikato River funnels through a narrow chasm at 400 tonnes of water per second - it is released by the control gates on Lake Taupo for the hydroelectric power stations during the hours of 8am - 8pm. The shelf the falls travel over is only eleven metres but the force of the water creates a dramatic effect of blue water bubbling and seething. Next we look at the Aratiata rapids where the water is released for half-hour periods at intervals during the day. Apparently there are 11 power stations on the Waikato River which supply 25% of all NZ's hydro power - 15% of all power. Lake Taupo is NZ's largest lake was formed by a huge volcanic eruption in 186AD that caused a blackening of the sky in China and Romans recorded that the heavens turned blood red.

We have to backtrack as we have missed the Craters of the Moon - an area of geothermal activity that first occurred in the 1950's when the geothermal power station was built. It takes an hour to walk through on boardwalks over steaming ground and near to craters bubbling and steaming. There are rumblings underground and some of the boards in the path are scorched! The mud bubbles and glugs as it spits into the air - it all seems very unreal and apparently quite dangerous! We are amazed to see algae and mosses that have adapted and are growing on ground that would burn the skin. A quick picnic and we push on to our main destination of the day - the Hidden Valley of Orakei Korako.
We take a boat over lake Ohakuri to view the emerald terrace of silica - it is actually bright orange, green and white and is striking both across the lake and when you walk alongside it. Hot water flows over it to the lake at a rate of 20 million litres a day, but it seems a mere trickle! There are several geysers along the way some of which 'perform' for us. The diamond geyser is particularly impressive as it was dormant when we saw it as we arrived but just at the end of our trip it suddenly burst into life reaching about 4 metres in height and belching steam - we sat for a while encouraging it. We also explored the 'sacred cave' where the pool in the bottom is so clear you cannot determine where it begins. It is warm and has a chemical composition which is said to clean jewellery - it is also said to grant your wishes if you hold your left hand in the pool - both of which Glyn does but has not so far been able to substantiate the facts. There were three English girls there who were trying to clean the jewellery that had tarnished as a result of the previous day's mud bath! Apparently, they did remove it for the bath but it tarnished afterwards as a result of the sulphur coming out of their skin. The things people will do! The final spectacle is lots of boiling mud holes again - noisy and fascinating - also a bit smelly, like bad eggs at times. We return in the boat, have a cup of tea and head for Rotorua and 'The Funky Green Voyager' hostel.

This turns out to be a fairly new small hostel with a friendly atmosphere and run by the owners - a nice young couple who are clearly eco-friendly as they recycle everything. We have a lovely garden room and it has smart en suite facilities so we are yet again very comfortable. We discuss traveller psychology with the owner. One quote: "We used to charge $2 for the washing machine to include soap powder but people complained because there was no reduction for those with their own powder. So we now charge $2 and 50c for soap powder and no-one complains!"

The supermarket and shopping complex is across the road so we walk over and buy some fresh fish for dinner and discover a food hall with a Chinese stall where you can help yourself to a variety of dishes so we will probably eat out tomorrow.

(Hi. I'm writing this very carefully as I am swinging in a hammock, in the dappled shade of a pohutukawa tree on the north coast of the East Cape, over a little gully full of water - but more of that later.)

Saturday 1^st February 2003
Last night we were trying to decide between two different thermal areas to visit today. Our host suggested Waimangu as was less touristy, but we have decided on Wai-o-tomu if only to see Champagne Pool that features in lots of publicity.

Wai-o-tomu also home to Lady Knox geyser that performs at 1015 each day (obviously by intervention - not divine) so set off in time for show. Drive south of Rotorua about 30km and arrive 0945. You buy your tickets ($16.50 each) at visitor centre, then drive back up road to geyser. When going back to car Pete notices fluid dripping from under engine - it seems to be water, so will check it out more thoroughly later.

Off to geyser where are shepherded to area equipped with seating for large numbers of people. Of course this event has a major drawback as it means all the visitors come at same time and place will be heaving. Decide we might need to make a quick escape so Pete goes back to check out car before geyser time. On return he is feeling happier as has deduced that water is simply discharge from air conditioning - at least it seems to be coming from something designed to discharge fluid! This is third automotive problem that he has solved all by himself - amazing! Back to geyser. At designated time conjuror arrives with 1.5kg of soap powder that is emptied into mouth of geyser. While this is reacting we are given spiel -reservoir of superheated water beneath our feet is kept in place by layer of cooler water sitting on top; soap powder breaks down surface tension and causes layers to mix; top layer of water turns to steam which drives rest of water up through blowhole (or something like that). First the geyser bubbles like an overflowing washing machine then it starts to spurt and very soon we have an 11m fountain of water. After couple of minutes it subsides a little and continues to spurt at lower rate for about 45 minutes. It is all so controlled that we feel a little sad. If left to its own devices it would "erupt" on a cycle of between 2 and 4 days. How much more exciting it would be to witness that? But the (other) tourists must have their geyser.

On way back towards Rotorua we stop at Kerosene Creek - which is not signposted or advertised but is up a side road about 2km north of Wai-o-tomu on right. Just by turn-off is steaming lake - as good as the one back along road - and further on is a pull off for cars on right and short walk along creek containing very hot water. This creek forms first a small pool below a little waterfall and then a larger pool. Can bathe in either of these. At second is a sign that warns of Amoebic Meningitis. This is a very serious warning not to put your head underwater as the thermally heated water generally contains an amoeba that can pass through the mucous of your nose and up into the base of your brain where it causes no end of trouble. In fact, it is nearly always fatal. Symptoms of headaches, light sensitivity, etc. appear within 7 to 10 days and death can result within a further 3 to 10 days if not treated. Treatment is readily available but diagnosis is unlikely given the generally flu like symptoms. So beware. Needless to say we didn't bathe, but several other people did.

We then returned to Rotorua where we visited Government Gardens and the old Bath House, which now houses a "museum". In fact museum is really a series of exhibitions, although historic coverage of bath house is extensive. To us it all seemed like stuff from a horror movie. As well as bathing in either the acid or alkali waters from two different thermal pools the balneologists stuck electrodes in your bath for "high frequency" therapy. All sorts of famous people came to Rotorua to "take the cure" and of course the occasional miracle worked wonders for business. The Bath House is considered to be NZ's first tourist attraction and helped to make Rotorua a wealthy town. We also watched a short interactive movie that came with a warning saying that it contained loud noises and movement and that children under 12 should be accompanied. Nevertheless we were still unprepared when the earthquake was accompanied by increasingly vigourous movement of the seats on which we were sitting! The 15 minute movie was quite informative and we learned a lot about recent volcanic activity - including the destruction of the pink and white terraces in 1886 when a violent volcanic eruption split Mt Tarawera in two forming a 5 km long chasm.

After the museum wandered around gardens hoping to find the mini-golf course but only found more steaming fumaroles and as scorching hot anyway returned to hostel to cool off. At hostel hear of open-air concert in the park this evening so decide to give it a go after dinner. Set off to Food Court only to find it closed at 5pm. Oh dear. Walk on towards park looking for suitable restaurant and finally opt for Hennesey's Irish Bar where get excellent meals - Beef in Guiness Pie for Pete and Bacon, Lettuce, Avocado and Tomato for Glyn. Together with drinks, $31.50.

On to park where listen to series of "internationally famous" Kiwi performers (mostly geriatric but not all) we have never heard of, for a couple of hours. Finale is a piece of music called "Ten Guitars" which is felt by some to be NZ's unofficial national anthem. Then magnificent firework display for about 10 minutes before walking back to hostel. Another action packed day.

Every so often in Rotorua one gets a strong waft of sulphurous fumes - never any need to blame the dog for a bad smell! One interesting consequence is that unlike Turangi here we were not bothered by mosquitoes. One wonders whether living permanently in this atmosphere is good or bad for the residents.