Monday 23^rd December 2002
Rain started at about 0930 as Pete loading the car. Went into town to get laptop connected - finally achieved at computer company - charged $10. Got cash, did supermarket, petrol then off to Arthur's Pass. Rained continuously so didn't stop at Lake Brunner or anywhere else. Arrived in time for lunch. Comfortable hostel with living room warmed by solid fuel stove.

Arthur's Pass located just to east of highest point of pass through Southern Alps. Trans Alpine railway passes through from Christchurch to Greymouth, but formerly terminated here. Small village. Base for skiing in winter and alpine walks in summer. Plenty of walks from half an hour to several days. Rain continued so played chinese chequers (Glyn taught young lad, who taught another traveller - networking!) and Pete learned Speed (card game) from Australian Israeli. Glyn cooked cottage pie for dinner as special change. Did a children's jigsaw puzzle with Janice a Kiwi from Auckland who sounded just like Margaret. Quite amusing.

Rain stopped about 8pm so rushed out to walk up to Devil's Punchbowl Falls. Had to piggy back Glyn over flood stream, but path was too steep for her, so Pete went on alone. Walked back through village - lovely evening with excellent views of looming, bush-clad mountains. Looked into chapel, very plain but end wall behind altar all glass and view of waterfall amongst the trees - see picture. Also walked round railway station. Waiting room similar to chapel with a mountain view framed by the end wall - clever.
Tuesday 24^th December 2002
Rise to beautiful blue skies so Pete decides to do a mountain track before we set off to Christchurch. Sets off up Scott's Track towards Avalanche Peak not sure how far he'll get. After 2 hours on summit (1833m ~6000'), about 1000m up from hostel. Meets fellow German hosteller accompanied by a Kea that has followed her up. Pete's first encounter with Mr Kea. Kea starts to follow but soon transfers allegiance to next group of walkers. Cross some snow on way down - nearest thing to White Christmas here. Descends fairly rapidly on Avalanche Peak track but too fast as right knee is complaining, three and half hours round trip. Passes through bands of vegetation, from sub-alpine bush (including viburnum) through to alpine plants and tussocky grass, before bare rock near summit. Has picture taken on top, and takes pictures of Mount Rolleston to west and series of peaks to north west Mounts Phipps, Temple, Blimit and Cassidy.

Meanwhile Glyn walks back through village and takes pictures with video. Eat lunch before driving to Christchurch - about 2 hours. Check in at Foley Towers. Very friendly staff and excellent nearly new en-suite double for $44 - Glyn is delighted! Big hostel but rooms set round nice gardens. Bit busy in the kitchen at peak times. Take Janet Foley's (daughter) e-mail address as her partner from Borders and they may visit Scotland in near future.

After dinner, rather than Lord of the Rings, decide to walk to Christchurch Cathedral for carols with the cathedral choir and then on to Victoria Square for carols by candlelight. Huge numbers of people around central stage, sitting out in families. Like stately home concerts at home. For a while it feels like Christmas. Walk back along the river.

Wednesday 25^th December 2002
Merry Christmas everybody. The hostel is preparing a feast for the afternoon, but we are moving on. Pack up and drive to Botanic Gardens, where walk for a couple of hours. Christmas in the sun, seeking shade under trees, take self-portrait on video. After gardens walk round Arts Centre which occupies original University buildings now collection of craft units - all closed today. Includes Rutherford's Den.

Arrive at Charlotte Jane. There is a letter waiting for us - very exciting - it is a Christmas Card from Mat and Helen. Thank you. We have an "executive" suite, it is great. Our Christmas Present to each other. Pete fills the bath, big enough to swim in - first bath for 6 weeks! After settling in, take a drive over the Port Hills. Hills lie between Christchurch and Lyttleton and there is drive along their tops called, appropriately, Summit Drive. Being only high ground near Christchurch gives excellent views north, south, and east to "Misty Mountains" - southern Alps. Lyttleton harbour is the remains of a volcanic crater. Return, via tunnel from Lyttleton, in time for Glyn to shower and watch video (Ocean's Eleven) from hotel collection, before dinner at 8pm. There are two pairs of Americans also staying at the hotel. One is only here for 10 hours between flights, and the others (Chuck & Sophie) are flying home after visiting NZ.

Unfortunately, restaurant very busy and not ready for us at 8 so return to hotel lounge for a sherry until we are collected at 8.30. We have a table outside, but temperature is dropping and Glyn bitten by sand flies so move inside. Dinner is good enough but slow and 10pm by time we get dessert. Glyn is amused to see Sophie being given directions back to hotel by Chuck and they discover they are kindred spirits - both having a dreadful sense of direction. Chuck & Sophie did a guided walk on the Routeburn but Sophie says one day she took 12 hours to complete the distance - her guide was very patient. They also share a bad sense of balance and allergies - Chuck is a dermatologist and thinks they must share a common gene. We are the last to leave the restaurant.

We receive complimentary non-alcoholic drinks at the hotel and the very friendly staff bring us tea and coffee whenever we ask for it. There is also complimentary Internet access, with sherry and port alongside to smooth out any problems. Unfortunately, on our second night one guest was wired up all evening. Not a problem for us as we could connect the laptop in our suite.

Thursday 26^th December 2002
Big breakfast. Farewell to Chuck (aka Danny De Vito) and Sophie after exchanging e-mail addresses. Pick up our e-mail and have one from Marianne Smith with whom we are staying for New Year, to say they have had an accident in the family and now cannot take us, but have made alternative arrangements. Must find out what. Cancel dinner for tonight having decided to eat out instead.

Drive into Hagley Park and walk back to Arts Centre (still mostly closed) and on to Cathedral Square. Browse around, before deciding to watch Lord of the Rings at the Regent on Worcester. Glyn hasn't seen the first so Pete tries to fill her in. Film is nearly three hours but passes very quickly. Glyn, particularly, thinks is very good. Certainly interesting to try to identify the locations used. Get a bite to eat - actually rather too much as Glyn has gone for the 3 course Chef's special. Starts to rain. Have to hurry back to the car nipping from one patch of shelter to the next. Glyn wishes she hadn't eaten so much.

Back to the hotel. Start to plan itinerary for North Island. Book the ferry with Interislander for 21st Jan. No supersaver, saver, or economy fares available. Costs $179 for car and $52 each adult. (Later realise could have got discount with BBH card, but of course they didn't ask.) In retrospect would have been better to do car hire in two bits. (Later discover that Straits Shipping do operate a limited alternative service which is a bit cheaper (30%?). Two travellers told us they did this and received meals as well.) Book Yellow House at Nelson Lakes, St Arnaud, for 19th but it doesn't sound good. Very small room with two bunk beds, no linen. Also book Villa, Picton for 20th and Moana Lodge, Plimmerton for 21st and 22nd - everybody recommends it. Have coffee brought up. Then watch Chocolat. Two films in one day - but then it is Boxing Day.