Tuesday 17^th December 2002
Big journey today to Hector, north of Westport on west coast. Journey entails retracing our steps back to Nelson over two ranges of hills/mountains. Steady rain from outset - just as well to get it over on a travelling day. Stopped at Silkwood Café just before joining Highway 6 where Glyn bought a tee-shirt and present for Elspeth. Tea and large savoury muffins - meal in themselves. Next stop at Murchison to get petrol. Then drive through series of impressive gorges, finally Buller gorge before getting to Westport. Didn't stop anywhere as still raining. Made better time than expected.

Supermarket in Westport and stocked up for next three days at Slaughterhouse. Set off north and spotted Slaughterhouse high on the wooded slopes above the sea as we approached. Parked at bottom and walked up. Glyn curses Karsten who said it wasn't too steep. Decides she won't go out for three days. House is 110m above the road and is quite steep. Welcomed in at the house and accept offer of tea. Then David (owner) takes Pete down on quad bike to get pack, food box and cool bag. Another tick in a box. Quite a hairy trip but apparently David has only left the track twice and never hurt himself! Slaughterhouse was built by David, family and assistants primarily as backpackers. It is all wooden and sits on cliff overlooking sea. Pete says has never seen so much sea in one place before (Tasman Sea). The height stretches the horizon enormously and the earth's curvature is clearly visible - wouldn't see so much sea from boat in middle of ocean. There are verandahs everywhere to access the view. The main house is one huge living room with a kitchen inset. A mezzanine floor provides more seating space. The ablutions block runs alongside (attached). The rooms are in two separate buildings above the main one. Ours has two double rooms, the other two dormitories. David & partner Ina (German) share the facilities and have their own room off the mezzanine. We are also cared for by 3 large dogs (two black "puppies" and one golden who is 17 and very arthritic - disturbingly like Taffy) and a cat. There are only four other backpackers, two Israelis, a Japanese and an Australian (Charmaine). It seems they are not usually fully booked. Could be the access. There is basically no electricity. David has a small hydro-electric generator which powers 24V lighting. Bottled gas for fridges, cookers and hot water. No Internet or laundry. So wouldn't suit everyone but we are more than happy, atmosphere is great and David quite a character (brother) - former sheep shearer. Wants to know if we need any shearing in Scotland! Entertains with what seem to be standard stock of stories including those about problem guests.

For dinner we do fillet steak, onions & mushrooms, boiled potatoes, followed by water melon - excellent again!

Wednesday 18^th December 2002
Drop Charmaine at Charming Creek walkway while we head north to end of road at Kohaihai, north of Karamea, and start of Heaphy track. Karamea seems further than expected and begin to question decision when confronted with sign indicating 26km of bends over Karamea bluff. However, press on. Begin walk to Scott's beach but too steep given Glyn's cold and stop at lookout point. Walk back to car. Sand flies are becoming a problem but neither of us react badly to bites. They are something between midges & mosquitos and not a problem if you keep moving. Excellent vegetation again, sub-tropical with Nikau and Cabbage palms.
Start to head back but decide to look at attractions at Oparara Basin. This time confronted with 16km of unsealed road, then sign saying narrow and steep. Stupidly decide to carry on. Tear up car hire agreement. After about 8km having serious doubts but nowhere obvious to turn round. Eventually arrive at car park and are surprised to find other vehicles. First stop is Crazy Paving and Box Canyon caves. Mysteriously Pete brought torch with him on a whim. Walk through mystical forest with trees and palms clad in moss of many different varieties and hanging roots - like something from film set (maybe Yoda's in Star Wars). Caves interesting - self guided, small torch. One of the caves is occupied by variety of large spiders (arachnaphobics beware).

On to Galadriel's Mirror Tarn. A beautifully still round lake with bush to the edge. Waters very dark because of tannin - likewise streams - so looks like black mirror. Not easily captured on film.

Then on to Oparara Arch. 15 minute walk along river gorge to huge limestone arch through which river flows. This one impossible to photograph, but most impressive. Again the undergrowth and moss very atmospheric.

Getting late and good hour and half back to hostel, but return journey seems shorter (as always). Climb back up to our eerie after big day (8pm) and meet new guests while preparing dinner. Watch the sun go down from the balcony. Decide this would have been a good place to spend Christmas - but then we didn't know when we made our bookings.

Charmaine has booked us to take her to Greymouth the day after tomorrow. David and Ina leave to see premiere of Lord of the Rings II (midnight) and Charmaine is left in charge of the dogs (she's drunk a whole bottle of wine and is slurred). The dogs can only be let out one at a time or they wander too far - serious problem because of poison & poisoned possums in the woods. Seen many dead possums ourselves and have photographed one for Donnie!

Thursday 19^th December 2002
Decide to stay home, but Pete elects at lunchtime to go for a good tramp in the woods. On David's advice sets off for Mokihinui Gorge - must ask at pub in Seddonville for directions. Unfortunately they don't seem to know anything but local drinker sets Pete in right direction. Unwilling to take car through first ford, leave it and walk. Easy going except for crossing side streams. At one point have to sit on two tree trunks and shuffle across! Walk for 2hr 30min then turn around and walk back. Bush walk perched high above deep gorge with occasional clearings giving dramatic views. On return find road blocked by farm gates and interminably long procession of cattle returning from milking. After waiting 20 minutes decide to rearrange gates, take car through, and quickly restore gates. All works OK!

While Pete's away Glyn has been helping at the hostel and has cleaned all the windows inside and out. Makes friends with Ina. Attempt to charge battery on computer using an inverter but it fails and power down to 2% so will leave it now till we are back in the real world. Cook dinner and include David and Ina. Afterwards everyone joins in game of Trivial Pursuit boys v girls. Girls narrowly win but David convinces himself was a draw. Anyway girls outnumbered boys 2 to 1. Good evening, lots of fun.

Friday 20^th December 2002

David and Ina brought all our gear down on the Quad and we all said goodbye. Hugs from both Ina & David (great believer in hugs!). We have managed to pack Charmaine and all her gear into the car too. Very sad to be leaving Slaughterhouse - wish we were there for Christmas.

As we drive away Pete notices brake warning light is on. Pete astounds everyone, including himself, by not only correctly diagnosing the problem but succeeding in opening the bonnet, buying brake fluid and inserting in correct place - symptoms relieved, but do we have a slow leak caused by driving over unsealed roads.

First stop is Cape Foulwind to see the fur seals, and plenty of them there were. Lots of family groups - tiny babies and big old dog seals fiercely defending their rock from younger males. Sun is shining and we drive round to a café which has been highly recommended by a fellow guest. The 'Bay Café' was quite nice with a lovely setting and we stuffed ourselves with huge portions of cake before going on south to the Pancake Rocks. It seems we are two hours late for the high tide when the water sprays out of the blow holes. Nevertheless it is very unusual with the tall rocks layered like thin pancakes. Perhaps we will come back another day at the right time.

On to Greymouth where we have to deliver Charmaine to her backpackers hostel 'Global Village'. She will be travelling on tomorrow to Arthurs Pass where she will spend Christmas - we are a little worried that our YHA hostel may not be good but Global doesn't look anything special from first glance so we press on.

Greymouth is a very drab town and we are not sure what we will do for three days but the YHA hostel is large, airy and well equipped. Big kitchen with lots of cooking plates and a dining room with several formica tables and chairs. All very functional but lacking in atmosphere - not very many guests so plenty of space everywhere. Our room is small but ok.

There are two 'pay' computers but no telephone point for the laptop.

Go into the town and inquire at two internet shops - the first one says no but the second says maybe on Monday so we will go back. Next stock up with food then back to cook dinner and send a few mails on the hostel computer before bed.

Saturday 21^st December 2002
Glyn feels like she has a broken back - torturous night on very squidgy bed - will sleep on floor tonight.

Another fine day so we go to Hokitika (Pete won't go to Shanty Town - a mock up of a mining town set up for tourists) so we go to the jade shops and then to Lake Kaniere and Dorothy Falls.
Long dusty drive then on to Hokitika Gorge where we are amazed by the most incredible turquoise water set against white rocks. Water is very clear and deep with fast running currents. It looks like springs are bubbling to the surface but it could be just the currents swirling. It really is a most remarkable sight. Blue colour seems to be related to glacial melt water containing fine suspended particles. Next stop Lake Mahinapua, take a short walk but nothing much of note so drive back to Greymouth.

Laundry followed by dinner then off for a walk on the beach to collect some of the beautiful coloured stones.

Sunday 22^nd December 2002
Receive a note under our door saying that Tom and Maureen had phoned on 16th to thank us for the flowers that Glyn had sent and to wish us Happy Christmas.

Pete has trouble with Gestapo staff at YHA hostel. Tries to use loo while cleaning in progress. Hitler knocks on the door - for goodness sake! Apparently there was a sign half way down the stairs - where Pete hadn't been. Never mind, got the job done! Rest of the staff were fine.
Set off late morning in order to arrive at Pancake Rocks, Punakaiki, in time for high tide when the blowholes should be blowing. Nice sunny day, but calm and tide not very high so only half-hearted "blows", despite myriads of tourist cameras. Stopped there for lunch in pleasant setting. Afterwards went on to Punakaiki Cavern, but unable to see much as this time no torch.

North a little further to the Porariki River walk. Delightful track along a serene river flowing between high limestone cliffs. Watched quite a few people canoeing - even Glyn fancied having a go.

However, pushed on to Truman Track which is a short 15 minute walk through bush to the beach. We timed this to be when the tide had receded allowing us access. Good beach backed by sea carved rock overhangs/caves. Shells embedded in rock. Whilst exploring meet David and Hagar from Hopewell. Swap stories until the sand flies drive us away. They had a different opinion of Innlet, having refused to stay after seeing our "cottage". Obviously not to everyone's taste.

Hurry back to Greymouth passing some magnificent coastline (where hills come down to water's edge). Intended to watch L of the R's but found that it was not showing - carol service instead. Bit disappointed but watched a video in TV room.

Used BBH card to ring Chris to wish him happy 12th birthday, before going to bed.