Monday 18^th November 2002
Arrive Chiang Mai 0430 in heavy rain. Greeks turn out to be Spanish. Rosa’s people take us to their leader – Mr Sawatdee (or Mr Hello) at Backpackers Meeting Place (BMP) – where we have tea, bananas and turtle key rings. Buy two half day excursions. Resistance is low. Talk to Mr Hello about our families. He giggles a lot. Say goodbye to Mr Hello, go to Tamarind Village hotel, but no-one seems to know where it is. Find hotel and receptionist who kindly gives us a room until ours is ready. Sleep ‘til breakfast. After breakfast move to our room. Water pours out of AC unit – its fate. We had high expectations of Tamarind Village, always a mistake. But still nice with good atmosphere and trees. Just a bit rough around the edges. Our visit to Rosa has left our holiday in a limbo state between backpacking and something more luxurious.

Update this log and get connected – reply to emails from home, fail to update webcam. Walk into town. Not exactly sure of location and no-one seems to know of our hotel. Find hairdresser, Glyn has hair cut for 100 Baht £1.50 (+100% tip) – seems OK. Visit another Wat – Wat Chedi Luang – very different to others we have seen. Under the trees is a sign saying "Monk Chat" – turns out you can go and speak to "real live" Buddhist monk. Toy with the idea but not sure what to talk about – maybe attitude to women as previous Wat had sign saying "No Ladies". Feel we have seen enough Wats. Walk on along busy street, children everywhere. Spot small child in uniform in middle of street blowing whistle and directing traffic. Aided by two compatriots with red flags occasionally stops traffic to allow people to cross. Turns out there is a school sports day. Walk on out to old city wall, many street traders and market stalls. At 4pm stop in restaurant for drink and end up having our first meal away from hotel (very brave) – Glyn has stir fried shrimp, broccoli and bean sprouts, Pete has stir fried vegetables and chicken – seems fine.

Today the festival of Loy Kratong has begun as the new moon approaches. Come to market where excellent stalls of food and crafts. There are people performing and the streets are bustling. We walk out to Nawarat Bridge over Mae Ping River by which time it is dark. During the festival, fireworks (mostly crackers) are being let off day and night and people light candles to float down the river, many stalls selling floating candles. They are made from slices of banana trunk wrapped in leaf and decorated with flowers. A candle and incense sticks are pushed into the centre. Wander round soaking up atmosphere. Road is closed for long procession of costumed people, with lanterns, floats and music (mostly drums). Glyn stops for 10 minute foot massage (19 Baht 30p). Both buy banana pancakes from roadside trader. Meet lads from Orkney. Back to hotel for wine by the pool before bed.

Tuesday 19 November 2002


We have been away for one week now. Pete likes hotel – green oasis in centre of town – takes some pictures. Sitting at breakfast decide that we have no reaction to food eaten on bus and in town yesterday - but speak too soon. Glyn goes back to bed. Pete sits on balcony to write log. Air crackles with fireworks, music in the distance.

Pete goes off on his own to explore further reaches of Chiang Mai by foot. It has the air of a city recovering from the previous night’s celebrations and preparing for the next. Hot day with clear skies. Despite being worried about burning all seems OK despite bare feet and arms – perhaps plenty of ozone here. After wandering through more Wats arrive at river and watch bamboo raft race. Chiang Mai is second largest city in Thailand but events have a very provincial feel. Many traders arriving and setting up their stalls. In search of water turn into wholesale food market. So many strange and unusual products. For every one that is familiar there are half a dozen can only guess at. Surprised to see fish kept alive in large basins of water and tiny turtles for sale. Watch a roadside trader prepare a dish of bean sprouts, omelette, and mussels. Very tempted but decide against. Cross the river by the Rama IX bridge and return on far side. Sit on the steps of a temple to escape the sun. Many children in uniform (scouts & guides?) playing happily. Reflect on freedom and lack of supervision – not the fear that we have at home – long may it last. Return to the hotel.

Pete buys and eats a seafood thing cooked in banana leaf. Advertised as "not too spicy and delicious". Pete needs copious fluids! Finish the day with another banana pancake.

Wednesday 20^th November 2002
Set the laptop alarm for 7am as early start for tourist trip. Collected from hotel at 8 by our guide and driver. Turns out will be only us. Another private excursion.

First stop is the Mae Sa elephant park, where we buy bunches of bananas and sugar cane to feed the elephants, then watch them bathe and then "perform". Touristy we know but the elephants seemed very happy. Elephants do many things including dancing while playing mouth organs, playing football, and painting (most impressive, three elephants with three different styles and considerable precision). Also more serious working moving large lengths of tree trunk to build a wall. Pete and Glyn go for 10 minute ride on elephant at great expense.

Next stop at the orchid (and butterfly) farm. Glyn buys an orchid necklace. Many orchids, quite pretty. Incidentally, we have orchids in our hotel bathroom.

Finally, stop for the monkeys. Again buy food to feed them. The white handed gibbons are adorable and one male one becomes very attached to Glyn. Pete and a handler eventually prise him loose from her head. The monkey show is less enjoyable, not sure if monkeys are so keen.

Stop for cash on way home. Modern ATM’s are a great invention. It seems miraculous that your Barclay’s cash card will give you Baht on the Chiang Mai roadside. Big tip for guide (Anne) who was extremely friendly.

Spend the afternoon swimming and sitting by the pool at the hotel. Many foreign accents around us but the Americans always seem most vocal. Planning to eat in tonight. Can’t believe we have been at Tamarind Village three days already.

Thursday 21 November 2002
Another moving day. Collected at lunch time by BMP for second tour. Just us again with guide (Pin Pong) and driver in minibus.

Visit Wat at Doi Suthep. Very holy place as houses one of the six great relics of the Lord Buddha. Also at 1800m so pleasantly cooler than town. Are initiated into the Buddhist rites of lotus flowers, lighting incense and candles. We also present ourselves to a monk who splashes us with holy water and who takes Pete’s hand (men only) and ties a string around right wrist for "good luck". Monk says, "Nice camera", though a bit wet. Can take off string after 3 days. Many bells and large gongs – very atmospheric. Excellent view over Chiang Mai. Apparently the relic was brought on a white elephant which was allowed to choose where the temple would be built. It stopped here and died here.

We discover that the monks are fed by their "congregation" who bring them prepared food early in the morning. Their housing needs are met by donations.

Went on to a second temple, Wat Ched Yod (seven spires), a replica of the temple at the place where the Buddha died.

Finally stopped at silk factory. Interesting to see silk worms, cocoons, spinning and weaving. Excellent garments but quite expensive.

BMP take us to Winner Inn hotel recommended by Rosa. This is a different kettle of fish, but the room seems clean and we have TV (no English channels), fridge and mini-bar (beers, cokes & chunky Kit Kats), and possibly a phone socket for the computer. Not what we have become used to but what do you expect for 800Baht (£12) per night.

Matriarch at reception says NO Internet – not quite sure why. Safety deposit box not big enough for laptop and don’t feel good about leaving in room so have to take with cameras out for dinner. Set off for Anusarn food courts but Pete has been disoriented by Winner Inn and end up taking cycle shaw (cf rickshaw). Bit cramped for two. Glyn still feeling fragile but decides to brave Thai outdoor restaurant. Honey fried chicken, chips, pan fried veg and fish, rice, two Singha beers – all for 255Baht. Glyn feels better for eating. Pete finds way home.

Passed laundry/hair dresser shop on way out and decide to take 1kg washing in the morning (30 Baht).

Friday 22^nd November 2002
Glyn sets off to laundry before breakfast. Intercepted by reception. NO take laundry. Laundry here. Our laundry bag is emptied on reception floor and underwear counted in front of passing guests. Glyn protests to no avail. We must pay 115 Baht – no ironing. Breakfast at hotel (by token). Loo floods bathroom. Glyn unwell in night but thinks maybe is Jungle Fever (repellent).

Set off to Wararot Market, take Song Tao (pickup with seats) for 20 Baht. Indoor market is crammed and stifling with smells of unknown dried foods, herbs and spices. Wander through to fish market where see skinned frogs, turtles and live fish on the slab, Glyn’s stomach turns. Then on to flower market. Post office to post cards. Town looks bare now that festival over. Picked up some leaflets at information centre. Wander some more and end up at the Peak – a climbing wall at the centre of a square.

Decide to check out a guesthouse/restaurant on one of our leaflets. The Oriental Guesthouse offers simple, clean accommodation for 300 Baht or 350 Baht(AC) for room with breakfast at 80 Baht. We had drinks and a pancake. Owner shows us a room. Very good food, room, friendly staff. Bathroom is loo and shower combined – maybe OK. We think we would rather be here than Winner Inn at twice the price. Recommended. (Need to book up to 8 weeks ahead.)

Walk on down Loi Kroh Road. Nice shops and restaurants. Very taken by wooden elephant shop, but freight cost is too high and nowhere to put them at home. (2’ elephant 2500B, Stool 1000B, 4’ elephant 20000B) Back to Winner Inn.

Out for dinner at Oriental Guesthouse (OK) and on to night bazaar. Huge indoor market. Across the road to Galare Food Court where you swap money for tokens and tokens for food from a variety of outlets. If you can find a table sit and eat while being entertained by the Thai Dancing girls.

On the way home stop at Hilltribe Hemp Café for drinks and live (Cajun) music.

Home to hotel. Laundry returned clean, dry and ironed. Bed.

Thoughts on Chiang Mai:

Tamarind Village Hotel – Pro: very restful, serene, uncluttered, unpretentious; Con: no fridge, low doorways (Pete still has two dents in his head), rebellious air conditioning. Recommended

Winner Inn Hotel – Pro: cheap; Con: cheap, officious matriarch, Pete has to fix loo twice. Not recommended.

City – Pro: lively, colourful, friendly (festival time) Con: nothing yet.

Thoughts on Thailand: We thoroughly enjoyed our 10 days in Thailand despite jet lag and disruption to our travel plans. We were very taken by the people and the relaxed Buddhist religion. However, by the time we left we felt we had exhausted the attractions of temples and shopping. Other attractions would include the night life and trekking from Chiang Mai.